1 - flat jewelers file (I use diamond but a standard works well)

1 - medium to fine grit wet sharpening stone and honing oil

1 - small gob of moly base grease (ESSO carries a 37% moly based grease that works very well)but any good lubricating grease will do

1 - magnifying glass 4x to 10x

After removing the Crosman sear you will notice on the sear a broken edge this is due to the sear being stamped out. The sear engagment edge is what your concern is.

1) Lightly file the edge nearly flat.

2) Then lightly stone the sear engagment edge until it is nice and smooth. Take care not to remove too much material. Just to a smooth edge.

3) Replace into gun, gob a small amount of grease on the sear. Squeeze trigger repetively to lubricate the sear and hammer engagement area.

This takes care of the sear. As for most Crosman modles a single spring adjusts the trigger pull poundage. This process is through trial and error find a slightly lighter softer spring retention weight as per the old factory 7 to 10 lb. You may have to cut the new spring to the same length as the old one. Replace. Springs can be found at your local hardware store for this. Lubricate the spring edge that contacts the sear. Compressing the spring in a vise does help but in the long term replaceing with a lighter spring that fits to the factory length works best.

Now if you are not mechanically inclined I would not try this, but here goes.

For starters take your striker (hammer) out of the gun. You will see where the sear catches the striker. This is an area that has been milled out of the bottom of it. The first thing I did was to grind away some of the ledge of that striker where the sear catches it with a dremel (if you don't have one of these you will never be able to do this). It has about 3 mm stock and I left it with about half that. After grinding away the ledge I polished the striker where I ground it as well as anywhere the sear has to slide on it. I just used a polishing wheel with a basic polishing compound that you can find at any sears.

After that was all shiny and pretty I polished the sear( you will have to remove the trigger frame , of course) where it meets the striker. First you have to remove the sear. This is done with a hammer and a pointed punch. Just punch the pins that hold in the trigger and the sear and they basically fall out.(look to be sure you are punching them out on the right side. One side has little burs that hold them in. punch on the opposite side of those burs) After the sear and hammer are all polished you will see a huge difference in the smoothness of your trigger and it will fire with a lot less force. Reassemble your trigger frame and you are ready to roll! Don't forget to blue all the parts you ground and polished or they will rust and you will have to replace the parts. Not to mention the trigger job will not be smooth very long.

If you want to take the slack out of the trigger then read on! If you pull the trigger and hold it, the gun will fire and you will notice that you have to let the trigger go about 1/4 inch before you hear that little "click" that lets you know that you can fire again. This distance is caused by the front thickness of the sear. If you look at the sear and trigger you will see where the trigger engages the sear when you pull the trigger. It catches the bottom on the front of the sear. This is where you want to remove some of the sear. ****Caution**** if you do these steps they are not reversible and you will have to buy a new sear and trigger if you mess it up, so proceed carefully, you can always take more off a part, its much harder to put more back on. Go slow! Take the sear out of the gun (if it is not already) and find the area of the front, bottom of the sear. (where the trigger engages it) you want to grind away about 1/2 of that distance to the top. So if you are looking at the sear from the side it will have a notch in the front on the bottom now. This will allow the trigger to engage the sear much later. It will also make it so that you only have to release the trigger about 1/8 inch to hear that "click" the trigger makes to refire.

Now that you have done this you will notice another thing. There is ALOT more play in the trigger before it fires. This is bad! Go to the store and get some 2 part putty epoxy. The kind used for plumbing jobs. (it is important that you use the 2 part variety. Normal putty will not get hard enough) It dries really slow and hard as a rock. You want to put some of this putty on the top, front of the trigger, up where the safety is (I am assuming you have removed the trigger at this point.) mold the putty so you have a hump on top of the trigger about 1/4 inch high or so. (this will be much more than is needed, but you will grind away what you don't need later.) Wait 24 hours for the putty to completely dry then take your dremel and smooth it out. You will just have to experiment at this point. Put your sear and trigger back in the gun. Don't pound the pins in all the way yet cause you. Will be taking the trigger out a few times more. Put your newly reworked striker back in and put the trigger frame back on the gun. You will see that the putty will push the trigger back as you tighten the screws. (the putty pushes against the bottom of the receiver) See if the gun will fire by cocking it and pulling the trigger (degassed of course). If the trigger is too far back then you will need to grind away at the putty some more until it will engage the sear. What you will have at this point is a trigger that will fire with little effort and within about 3 mm of its resting point. I just about doubled how fast I can pull the trigger on mine.

The last thing to do is to get rid of any over pull. Two ways to do this. Take the trigger out and drill a hole behind where the trigger rests. Tap the whole and then put a small screw in there. (this will act as a trigger stop) or use more of the putty behind the trigger. Again just put a hump of the putty behind the trigger and then let it dry. Then grind it away until you can fire the gun.

One side effect I must mention here. Once you have done this you have to take the trigger grip off the gun to field strip it. The striker will not be able to get past the sear with the grip still in place. It's a small price to pay for such a short trigger pull, but thought it was worth mentioning.

Happy hunting!